Rope Dye Crafted Goods
Apparel

How many Pockets should a Type II have? Just Ask Momotaro

Momotaro has “updated” the Type II Trucker, leading to a few interesting questions.

I am a big advocate for doing things this old fashioned way. I like my denim to be woven on shuttle looms, I like my hem chain stitched and I like to break in my jeans myself. On the flip side, I have to admit I wear more modern cuts and I’m more than happy to add belt loops to my 1878 Pantaloons so I can wear them.

Change for the sake of change?

The point here is not making changes to something, just for the sake of change. But also we shouldn’t stick our heads in the sand when it comes to practicality.

Tried and Tested

In the denim world, just due to the sheer longevity, popularity and history of the fabric and jeans themselves, I would imagine most things have been tried. The good ideas stuck and the bad ones fell away. We are left with a series of archetypes that define either a time or a garment type. Straying too far away from these designs usually ends up with some kind of Frankenstein’s monster of clothing.

Momotaro has done what now?

Iterative, practical changes to these archetypes, updates if you will, that I am totally down for. This is exactly what Momotaro have just done with their latest take on the Type II Trucker Jacket. They have added hand warmer pockets.

Now, adding handwarmer pockets to a Type II might not seem that much of a big deal to most, but I bet there are a few denimheads out there that are aghast. Adding hand warmer pockets is nothing new. Levi’s have been doing it on their Type III since the early 80 and would have probably done it on their Type II if it had still been in production.

Times Change

But why didn’t the early Levi’s jackets have the hand warmers? Well, the reason is probably two-fold. For a start, cost. Adding handwarmer pockets would have meant more material and a more complex production. Both pushing the cost of manufacturing up. The second reason is the difference in cut and how we wear our clothes today compared to the 50s. Back when the Type II was in production in the 50s, jeans were made with a much higher rise and worn that way and jackets were shorter because of this. Also, don’t forget that denim jackets were worn as shirts under a bigger, warmer jacket. No need for pockets there.

The Long Game

But as fashion changed, things needed to be updated. The Type III trucker got longer in the 80s and hand warmers appeared.

With the quality denim resurgence in the last decade or so, many brands have turned their hand to making their own versions of the classics. They either faithfully recreate every detail of the archetype down to the stitch count and machines used. Or they update the classic, tastefully and with an eye for the simple reality of the way in which their garments were are being worn.

Type III for the Times

3Sixteen’s Type III incorporates their signature yoke, added length and a slimmer fit and of course hand warmer pockets. Tellason do the finest job we’ve seen in hiding their hand warmer pockets and the original Levi’s, unless you are going for the Levis Vintage Clothing version, the Red Tab has the hand warmers and it’s been that way for the past 40 years.

Left Well Along

These are all Type III’s, the Type II for some reason has been mostly left alone, till now. Perhaps it is the popularity of the Type III silhouette or that Type II’s are the purview of the die-hard (don’t change anything) denimhead and only produced by brands that share the same outlook. But it is an incredible design and this denimhead is quite happy to see a little update after 70 years.

If anyone has, Momotaro has!

Momotaro-Type 2 Jacket-13oz Indigo x Indigo -Ropedye-2
Momotaro-Type 2 Jacket-13oz Indigo x Indigo -Ropedye-4

And if any brand has earned the right to make a few changes here and there, it’s Momotaro. They have done so with thought and consideration. Keeping all that we love about the Type II and to be honest, making it better. As well as the two new pockets the jacket comes in a 13 oz Zimbabwe cotton with indigo warp and weft. The result is a deep indigo denim that on closer inspection reveals a texture and hue variation that is sure to result in some incredible fades. It is also considerably more fitted than the original and longer in the body giving an overall modern fit.

You’ll find the right jacket for you, no doubt

It all comes down to what you’re into. If I was in the market for a Type II, this may just be a serious contender. The LVC version is just too boxy for me and the absence of a cinch to bring in the waist makes me look ridiculous. But body types differ. One thing’s for sure. With the plethora of brands, fits, styles and “updates” out there, you’re sure to find your perfect denim jacket.

If this is the one you want. Then head over to our mates at Standard and Strange. They will be able to sort you out.

Related posts

Get a 13% Pre-Order Discount on Bybeatle’s Drifter Waistcoat

Papa Nui: There’s Aloha In Every Stitch

Dylan Mayes

Rope Dye Chats: Lennaert Nijgh of Benzak Denim Developers

Matt Wilson