Big John Rare 008: The Best Jeans This Denimhunter Ever Owned!

Discover the Hidden Details of the Big John Rare 008

The sewing of the Rare 008 is done with two tones of poly/cotton thread. The majority is tobacco coloured whilst an indigo dyed thread is used sparingly here and there. Over time, the indigo thread fades to reveal some of the hidden construction details; like the deerskin leather inserts that reinforce the buttonholes.

Pocketing

The back pockets are half lined (my preference) with heavy cotton twill and reinforced with two lines of stitching.

For a jean of this caliber, you would think that hidden rivets are de rigueur. However, Big John once again looks to making these jeans last. Hidden rivets have a tendency to blow right through denim, weakening the surrounding area and scratching furniture. Instead, they opted for the bartack.

The pocket bags are made from the same heavy twill used for the back pocket lining. It is amongst the heaviest material I have seen used on pocket bags so far and very durable. I carry a big set of keys around with me all the time and there is not a hint that it is wearing thin. The Rare logo is screen-printed onto the pockets along with some Japanese text. Sorry, I’ve not found out what it means.

The Leather Patch Nods to Tradition

The leather patch is the same indigo-dyed deerskin as found on the buttonhole inserts. It is unbranded and not really seen when you wear the jeans with a belt. It is a nod of the head to tradition without being overt.

Keeping Them Up is Loopy

The belt loops are an interesting twist. Not only is one end tucked under the waistband, they are looped back on themselves creating two separate loops and a completely clean construction. No open ends. You can see a picture of the belt loop in the slider above.

Two-Tone Rivets

The rivets are recessed pin and plate meaning that the nub which usually sticks out of the top of the rivet is flush, no catching or scratching. They are also two-tone, which provides a really beautiful contrast.

The Buttons Fade Too!

The buttons are again something pretty special. The also “fade” (perhaps patina is a better way to describe what happens).

On the initial soak, you see spots of rust springing up. This quickly patina and adds character. The buttons are also leather backed with deerskin.

A Missed Opportunity? (The “Missing” Chain Stitch)

A comment on chain stitching. Well, I can’t say much about it because there is none on this particular pair of jeans.

Chain stitching was invented so that a line of stitching could be easily pulled undone by cutting a single thread. It also adds more flexibility to the stitching. Lock stitching, which is used exclusively on these jeans, stays in place even if one stitch is broken.

Given how beautifully this denim fades, I would love to see the roping had the hem been chain stitched. But, once again, tradition has been sacrificed for longevity.

All these features make a fantastic pair of jeans. But it is the denim that really makes them exceptional. Find out more on page three.