Lewis Leathers: The Rebirth of a Fashion Icon

Many Japanese guys wanted the British motorcycle look and their interest brought it to the forefront. The predominant look for most guys over there was Amicaze –  American casual with American bikes, American jackets, and the different look that went with California style.

“Suddenly people became aware of Lewis Leathers and its connection with motorcycle racing, with youth cultures like Rockers and punk. They knew all about Malcolm McLaren and Vivienne Westwood’s clothing and Dr. Martins, but they’d missed Lewis Leathers, so it kind of opened the door for us. We were there at the right time and the jackets started selling quite nicely.”

Rebirth of an Icon

Derek says the enduring appeal of a Lewis Leathers leather jacket is based on equal measures of heroism and rebellion. Men like RAF test pilot Sir Alex Henshaw and daredevil 1950’s bikers The Ton Up Boys all sporting the brand.

The jacket that Derek is most proud of is the Bronx, he feels it typifies the brand.  Released in 1956 it had its roots in a jacket from the late 1920s. It was a jacket that, whilst its American name would have sounded exotic to English teenagers in 1956, was very functional. It had a big deep pocket on the front – a hangover from map pockets on flying jackets – but was tailored for modern bike riding.

“The Bronx was a very iconic jacket for us. It moved Lewis Leathers from its pre-war image of a dad’s brand to a new era for the younger rider. The brand developed from there. Eventually, even though the shop was still called D Lewis Ltd, everybody called it Lewis Leathers.”

So, it’s not surprising the leather jacket became so popular with post-war British kids, gaining a wider appeal as a fashion item outside of the motorcycle community.

Lewis Leathers stands apart because it is quirkily British, says Derek.

“Nowadays we seem to be a bit more exotic because to a certain extent we’re still an unknown factor. We have a far wider range of styles than some of these big companies based abroad. That’s part of our appeal.”

The Choice Is Yours

Another is very personal service.

“We do a lot of custom manufacturing. People can come in and choose colours, stripes, different coloured sleeves, contrasting sleeve, and body colours. All sorts of options are available to them.”

Lewis Leathers roots in gents tailoring are alive and well today – made to measure jackets are a core part of the modern business.

One jacket is made by one machinist – a process that can take up to 20 weeks. Happily, this is something Derek is not prepared to compromise on.

Devil’s In the Detail

Talking to him this emerges as something of a theme – perhaps best exemplified by his obsessive quest for the correct vintage style zips, which are all made from brass and have been remodelled from vintage British zippers right down to the finest detail.

This same level of dedication goes in to the quality hides used by Lewis Leathers, with a minimum of 1.1mm thick Grade 1 hides being acceptable for the bike jackets.

“Size is important, the bigger hides mean getting bigger jackets out of them. We’ve been going for a hide that has technical detail – a water resistance to it, something that will keep you dry and warm on a motorcycle.”

Derek prefers cowhide, but customers can specify softer sheep hide.

Most Lewis Leathers jackets from the early 60s to the 70s we made in two versions, one in cow, one in sheep. Back then sheep was the cheaper option for those who wanted to wear them on the street or simply couldn’t afford the hide version.

Today vegetable tan hide is not cheaper – it’s artisan made and now costs the same or sometimes more than cowhide. “It’s not as durable either,” says Derek. “If you’re going to come off a bike I’d rather be in a cowhide jacket. But that’s the customer’s choice. ”

Heritage and Innovation

Derek has recently started working with Italian horsehide, but as he says, “It’s pretty new to us, we’ve only been producing it this season.”

There are several other new projects in the works, with Derek taking an increasingly longer look at the products the company made prior to the 1950s. One that Derek is particularly keen on is the developing of a jacket worn by Sir Alex Henshaw during his record breaking 1939 round-trip flight from Gravesend to Capetown.

“It’s an iconic piece. These items are part of our deep history and heritage, so we’re taking a look with a view reissuing them.”

There are also plans to introduce a range of denim later this year. Derek has been working with a small manufacturer in Japan on two pairs, one a slim fit and one a classic 501 type fit. If the results of the collaboration are anything like the quality of Derek’s jackets then these jeans will be worth checking out.

Clearly Lewis Leathers is heavily influenced by its heritage, but this is not at the expense of innovation. It’s fantastic to see Derek invest so much genuine passion and knowledge in to what he does – ultimately this means a better leather jacket for you, the customer. Importantly it should also ensure that Lewis Leathers will be around for a long time to come.

At upwards of £600 a jacket it’s certainly not cheap but if you look after it, a Lewis Leathers it will last you a lifetime.

“over time a leather jacket, like a pair of denim jeans, tells a story.”

If you’re in London the shop is well with a visit or you can purchase online here.

With thanks to Derek for taking the time for this interview. Photography: Mark Larner & Lewis Leathers.