The 8 Essential Details You Need to Look For
Some of the most frequently asked questions we get are related to determining the authenticity of vintage jeans, especially vintage Levi’s 501 jeans. This article provides an overall guide to the eight details you should be looking out for when putting a production date to vintage Levi’s 501 jeans, exemplified with this rare pair produced between 1967-1968.
1) Selvedge or no selvedge
The first thing you should look for when inspecting vintage 501 jeans is whether it’s a selvedge denim. If so, the jeans are likely to be produced before the mid-1980s.
Learn all there is to know about selvedge denim here!
2) Inspect the red tab
If there’s a Big E on it, you’re well on your way to the big jackpot. If the red tab only has lettering on one side (the one facing the front) the jeans are pre-1955. Still, if it’s a small e red tab has your find might still be worth buying.
3) Care tag
Inspect for a care tag, if you find one the jeans are post-mid-1970s. Be aware that fakes and Levi’s Vintage Clothing jeans can have both Big E and care tag.
4) Single stitch back pockets
Do the jeans have ‘single stitch’ back pockets, i.e. lock stitches and not chain stitches on the horisontal double felled seams on the top of the pockets? If this is the case, the jeans were produced before 1976 (roughly).
5) Rivets
Inspect the rivets. If the back pockets have hidden rivets (replaced by bartack around 1966) and if the back plates of the rivets are silver coloured with lowered letters the jeans are post-1966. If the back plates are copper it’s really getting interesting. And if the letters are raised and not lowered you are holding a pair of pre-1960s jeans, and chances are that you will get goosebumps all over.
6) Patch
Inspect the patch. A leather patch, contrary to the ‘leather-like’ cardboard patch, is an indicator that the jeans were produced before 1955.
7) Buttons
You have probably noticed by now, but the next thing you need to inspect is the front of the buttons. If it’s donut buttons with laurel leafs then the jeans were produced during WWII. This can be verified by painted arcuates (if still visible) and front pocket bags of varying fabrics, e.g. in green. These jeans are very hard to come by.
8) Cinch or no cinch
Another thing you probably noticed right away, if it’s there, is the back cinch. If there is one and everything above has been checked off, then the jeans are pre-1937. This can be verified by a crotch rivet at the base on the button fly. Most jeans this old are on the hands of either the Levi’s Archives or collectors.
Anything older than this, for instance without belt loops or with one back pocket only, is either lying around in the Nevada desert or locked up in a fire and earthquake proof safe, and will probably not be put up for sale for less that what you pay for a midsized car or a trip around the world.
122 comments
Stunning 501s. I appreciate the info a lot. I have a very similar pair of “Big E” single-stitch 1501 0117 jeans with: a #2 button; no F, S, or A stamp on the large paper patch (without the extra pull-off piece on the edge); no V-stitch; no care info printed on the pocket bag; lemon-stitched topstitching on the felled inseam and fly-flap; marigold, mustard, and orange thread elsewhere; and the same beautiful, grainy denim (with a similar fade and “tracks” up both out seams) as in the above pictures. I always wondered if they were made before or after the F, S, A series. Still not sure, but I’m guessing either ’66-’67 ( right before F, S, A series) or 1969 (right after F, S, A series but before care stamp on pocket bag). May be wrong but either way, they are great vintage levi’s, as are the above pair. The only bummer is that someone seam-ripped the chain-stitched hem before I got them, the bastards! At least they didn’t cut them shorter or something. They are a W32xL38 that shrunk (and stretched back out in the waist) to a W32xL34.5. One of those hard to find long-inseam jobs. Without the hems closed, I either gotta roll ’em up, or eventually have them hemmed properly with a Union Special. Anyways, I’m rambling. Thanks for the info, and the primo “denim porn”. Take care.
About how much are children’s Levi’s denim pant size w18 l13 bought in 1980 worth? They are my pants when I was about 6 months old. The length is either 18 or 19. Looks like 18.
Near perfect condition.
I have a pair of vintage Levi’s with a capital E in navy blue and white, back of button has 522 on it, zipper has 42 on it.. These navy blue jeans have no rivets on pockets and pockets on back are same as the ones on front.. I can’t find any like it to compare to so I’m lost when it comes to age. Please help… Ty cyndi
I have a pair of vintage Levi’s with a capital E in navy blue and white, back of button has 522 on it, zipper has 42 on it.. These navy blue jeans have no rivets on pockets and pockets on back are same as the ones on front.. I can’t find any like it to compare to so I’m lost when it comes to age. Please help… Ty cyndi
I found a mens Big E Levi’s jean jacket sz 48.. 507 xx… How to tell if this is an orginal vintage jacket.. or a replica? The tags look fairly old but the jacket is in excellent shape.. barely any wear, the tag says 555.. and i believe its a 2nd edition jacket from the 50s but can’t be sure.. any advice
Sounds like you’ve got a jacket made at the Valencia St factory.
I just bought some stuff from a long time local Levi store that has closed. Included was a roll of the patches that go onto the back of the jeans. They told me that they were obtained from a Levi’s salesman back in the 1960s or 70s. I have not been able to locate any similar rolls being offered and wondered if you might be familiar with this item or how I can date the patch. Thanks!
Can anyone help me with these are they originals if so what year my dad has had them for years never worn at all
Hi Chantelle,
I have a hard time figuring out what you are asking? Do you want us to help you identify the production year of some jeans your father has?
Please help
These jeans
This looks like a pair of 90s, maybe even early 00s, jeans. I’m sure they are great, but they are not a collectors items, which means they probably won’t sell for very much. Apart from that, with the very limited possibilities of evaluating them based only on this slightly blurry picture, they look genuine.
Thanks for a nice informative site! I found these earlier today and started googling, and found you. Are these worth anything? I noticed the white jeans have a large E for instance. Thanks a lot!
Here’s a close up of the label with the large E. Thanks again 😉
I have a pair of Levi’s that my nan had when she was younger but I can’t find any info on them just wondered if u can tell me if they r fake
I have lvc 1947 with button code 4420.Do you have any idea about 4420 button code?is my pair is a fake and if original lvc which factory my pair made of?
Please denim hunter I getting confused of my lvc..
I found a couple of sites that sell vintage (as well as newer used) Levi’s for pretty cheap. Both are great if you love Levi’s. newusedblues.com and name-brand-jeans.com
Thank you for the check list. As it turns out, I have a pair in very good condition matching item #8 in the above check list. I traded for them in the early 70’s and was told then they were old. Now I’m led to believe they’re pre-1936, rare and mostly in the hands of collectors! Hope this correct. Anyone have any idea of value? They’re coming out of closet and going in the safe!
HI TD,
Do the jeans have a red tab? Please upload a picture in your reply here in the comment thread and we’ll have a look at them.
Did the pockets on Vintage Levis ever turn green?
I found some small size Buckleback Levi’s at a dump in a cardboard box minutes before they would have been buried. I think they are from 1937, not sure. Can you provide exact date?
Here are some pictures of the Levi’s I found at the dump.
holy cow!
I can’t find any image of 501 with leather patch in the center of jeans? All have patch to the side. Does that make these 501’s rare? I found pants, shirt and boots together in the box at the landfill. Anyways, I was excited to find and save them from destruction. Thank you in advance.
Nice finding. It’s common for small sized buckle back 501 to be patch in the middle. Most probably before WWII. Can you please take pictures of the buckle and buttons/rivets.
please advise as i got my pair of 501 from a levi’s store in egypt and the top button has a a graved number that should match with the inside care label but unfortunately it doesnt although everything is authentic as posted here so please i need you help cuz um really thinking of returning it
Hi Ahmed,
Are the jeans vintage or new?
New !
Please upload a picture here in the comment field, it’s hard to say anything about the authenticity of the product based on your description.
here you go
any feedback ?
Hi Ahmed,
It’s difficult to say, but very unlikely that the jeans should be fake. you bought it at an official Levi’s store, right? And it’s not uncommon that the button stamp number is not found on the care label.
How do I know if a pair of jeans are replicas or the real deal? I found some 1944 501 Levi’s. It has everything that’s listed here that shows they’re real they issue I’m having is that they have all tags and they appear to be brand new, never worn. Also, it has a postmarked stamped letter sewn in to one of the pockets. Not sure if that’s supposed to serve as authenticating document since I didn’t open the envelope. Any help would be greatly apprecited.
Hi Ysaby02,
Does the letter in the pocket look like this: http://bit.ly/1wsdhCi – if so, then they’re a pair of LVC, i.e. reproduction.
I have 2 pairs of Levi’s 501s that were my dad’s so I think they’re from the 1950s. They have the big E and the leather label. Here are a few pix. I am wondering how much they are worth. Thanks!
Hi,
Great jeans, from the pictures they look genuine and in good condition. They are probably from the early 50s. This kind of jeans is not that rare, but collectors will probably still pay good money for them – especially if the condition of the rest of the jeans is good. We would recommend taking better pictures though, if you’re putting them up for sale 🙂
Dear denimHunter i purchased a pair of levis in market in cambodia.. i heard the horror stories of fakes i maybe lucky on these.. They are a Red Tab BIG E. Top Button has a Stamp letter K. they are 501 are in good condition but previously worn. i am curious about the date on these. any help would be great !!.. thanks in adavance
any more needed i here to help you help me.. Thanks
mine could either be
Levi’s 551 ZXX Big E or Levis 501 Big E Red Line Selvedge
i have a button fly .. zipper seem post 60’s no word on the button fly !! HELP !!
Hi Jay,
Do they have a care label?
yes.. B501-2 L3161 ive looked online with no real results on these barcodes also states at the bottom WPL 423
If there’s a care label then the jeans are definitely not original vintage ones (from the 50s/60s). Please upload a picture of the care label as well.
I have yet to see any barcode’s on vintage Levi’s (Pre-80’s). I doubt they’re worth anything in fact hardly any vintage jeans are worth real money. Although precious to collectors you will not “win the lottery” selling vintage denim.
You’re so right about that Corneel!
Are these them ?
Hi there,
Any chance that anyone could help me identify the cut of these and possibly a ballpark production time? There are no tags inside. There is an orange tab on pocket with a big ‘E’
and black marker indicating the size on inside. There is a zip fly with ‘Talon’ and the back of button reads ‘8’. 7 belt loops. Any help would be awesome.
Hi Mika,
Great catch, how much did you pay. With 99% certainty, these are original orange tabs, possibly from the late 60s or early 70s. With the red tab line, the care label wasn’t introduced until the mid-70s, we assume it’s the same for the orange tab – but if anyone can verify this we would appreciate it.
Looks like a pair of late 60’s or 70’s 517 (Not to be confused with the modern Levi’s bootcut model.), 615 Orange tabs or any of the other more obscure lot numbers. If I had to put money on it I’d say late 60’s 615 due to them being a lot more prevalent. Nice find and lovely original fades. Should you be interested Levi’s Vintage Clothing started re-releasing their Orange Tab line and I think they have a 615 model in their collection. The whole collection is pretty much completely historically accurate and made in the U.S..
Hey there! We found these Big E orange tab Levi’s and are trying to get a bit more info on them. I believe they are late 60s 606 jeans. The zipper is 42 TALON and there is a stamp on the button with the letter M or W. Please if you can verify this that would be amazingly helpful! Thanks!
A friend of mine recently acquired a pair of Levis that I believe may it be over 100 years old. They were discovered by someone excavating a creek bed near Dawson City Yukon while mining for gold.
They are in quite battered condition from the knees down but otherwise quite well preserved possibly due to being frozen solid for 100 years.
They have a cloth, not leather patch on the back which says “Guaranteed”. There are no belt loops. There is a back-cinch. Two back pockets.
There is a lot number as well: Lot 201
Of course we are wondering what these may be worth…
Hi Roger,
This sounds VERY interesting – and possibly something we would be extremely interested in featuring (exclusively – as the first medium)!
Would you send pictures of the jeans directly to [email protected] and we will take it from there?
Has anyone ever noticed the amount of buttons on the button fly? I have a pair of 60’s 501’s, and they have 3 buttons. I was just curious if that could help me date them.
Hi VickiF,
You mean three buttons excluding the top one? It’s not uncommon for smaller waist sizes to have four-button flies.
No this pair has three buttons total. I keep finding that these Levis are a little different, or strange compared to most. There is quite a bit of white and lemon stitching, aside from the gold. Its a shame though there is only a little corner of the leather tag, and just mostly the red portion of the red tag left. I believe they are from the sixties.
Why don’t you upload a few pictures? 🙂
Here is the pair of Levis with the 3 button fly. I took pics of the stitching and beltloops cause I noticed there is 1 gold stripe and 1 white stripe down the front of each loop, and they are stitched on with lemon thread, I thought that was strange, but maybe not. I believe the hidden rivets are brass, or something because around the inner portion of the rivets, on inside of jeans, it is dirty, just around the rivets. Any info anyone can give me would be most helpful, and I can always put up more pics, or answer any questions. Thanks in advance for the help.
I think these could be 503BXX ??
I have a LEVI jacket in capitals on label I believe my father bought this is the 1960s where would I sell it?
i have a pair of orange tab levis’ on the back of the button it says 561 they have a talon zipper they have no rivets. it looks like there was never a back waist patch. It has the washing instructions. Any info would be so helpful! Thanks!
Hello can you see if they are true levis jeans and wich old are they plwase .. Thank you 😀
I have a pair of straight leg levis that are a dark blue almost black color the leather tag on back is black lettering and the tab is also black with gold lettering small e the zipper pull says levi number on back is 17550-0795
https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/bc645dc1fb753d84614de5f126591d33e8e2de6275ab0648a55ad3c96ee98bef.jpg https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/39a7865488f65b024f7abb535bc06cd9bb675398575c5843a60eb31ae0d5af4a.jpg https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/bbe4cd8b485f5a9ccf83b03d24647d409e940ee05ce9b3b1b8e66da0926c81bf.jpg https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/ff80d8fd188f6ff911806a42bcfb8f13983fc6f98c20fb1f330ea44ca6424070.jpg https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/96fe1860a9982c28933219efdc9cde8bee42451c426216afc7f52f199358ddb4.jpg
any info on these? why does the red tag not say levis?
Hi James,
Every year, Levi’s has to make a certain amount of their red tab label without the Levi’s name on to uphold the patent on it. The jeans look to be from July 1992 (based on the 0792 on the care tag).
Your awesome… Thanks so much… So im assuming no value.
You’re right, they won’t be worth much to collectors
I have a pair of 501 jeans with selvage edges, the Big ‘E’ on the red LEVIS Tab on the back pocket. Writing on both sides of the tab-back side upside down. The digit on the inside of the top button is 6. Thin silver rivits on the inside (with lowered letters SF LS & CO) and no rivits inside or outside on the back pockets. There is no care label and I don’t see any numbers on the LEVI patch except 501 with a small S above the 501 and the size 32 X 30. I don’t see a way to upload pictures or I would upload them. The jeans are dark blue, very clean, with some fraying around the right front pocket and some horizontal fade lines from sitting in a classroom I suppose. My brother was in high school until 1964 & I believe thay were his but they could be from his college years later in the 60’s. I don’t understand the stitching differences so wasn’t able to use that to date them more exactly. Any advice on value or how to find out more?
Hi any chance of telling if these are fake or any details if real? Everything looks good cept the back label
They look legit. What does the back of the button say?
311
That would likely mean that they’re made in Europe (in the 80s), it doesn’t say on the care tag?
The care tag has 01810 would that make it jan 81?
Hi Many thanks for quick response and info, After many weeks of searching, I have finally found labels that match my 507’s. My worry was the line “Quality Clothing” under the “Original Riveted” line started too far to the left. I’ve since found it has two red X’s at the end, denoting made of double extra heavy denim of which they are a lot heavier than other levi’s I have
Any chance of a year? also would the back label have two red XX after “quality clothing”
Hello, I have a pair of pair of Big E Levi Lot 551ZXX w42 L 34 Selvedge jeans. What do you think they are worth? Unfortunately I am unable to add pics. Here is the link to my Ebay store. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Big-E-Levi-Men-Jeans-Selvedge-Lot-551ZXX-42-x-34-Made-in-USA-/291551021415?ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT
Well, it’s hard to say as the market really sets the price, but that being said I believe the price you have a too high. The wear pattern is not particularly unique or interesting but at the same time they’re washed too much to fall under the “washed once and almost never worn” category. Also, the size is tough since most collectors prefer some they can actually wear.
We found these Levi’s yrs ago in a wall space accessed from the attic of a Victorian house being remodeled in Aspen, CO. I called Levi Strauss in 1982, I believe, and they didn’t seem interested, so they were packed away in a trunk until I recently came across them again. There is a hole in the front leg, a missing buckle, a missing rivet at one of the back pockets. The inseam is something like 26-28″, the waist maybe 30″?. The rivets say LS & Co SF. Can you help me with their age and value?
Great jeans! If you call Levi’s today, they will probably be more interested.
In terms of age, Levi’s 501 jeans featured these details between 1922-1936, but the denim looks very much like the 1933-LVC 501 iteration.
any idea of value?
Thank you so so so much for your site’s information!! and your reply!!!
You’re welcome.
Well, I’m not sure about value. For the right collection you could get a really good price, the trick is finding that collector. But since the size is small it will be interesting for Asian c
Asian c”ollectors”, I assume.
Thank you again! Wish they fit me. Even at 56, I’m a self proclaimed denim purist 🙂
Here is another picture showing the hole in the front leg … (the rest of the story and pics below)
Hi can anyone tell me the difference between the 70503 02 and the 70503 04 trucker jackets if there is any.
Thanks
HelpI! – I’m thinking this is a clear yes or no answer. I’ve purchased “vintage levis” online and they seem to meet most if not all criteria for being legit. Here’s the thing- do the old Levi 501 stretch majorly in the butt area and knees after washing and drying then wearing once!?? Does anyone know how much if any stretching is normal? I could swear now that these are not the levis I used to wear . I remember being able to wear my old levis from the 80’s a ton of times with out any “give”. The ones I haven now (supposedly vintage 70’s 80’s) seem to follow suit with the newer type of cheap denim that’s out today – Where u are almost forced to wet/ wash and dry constantly to keep them fitted :(. Ghanks for any help ! Also , any thought on how to approach the seller of these on eBay? They seem to have quite a “boatload” of them. I bought 3 pairs and had two altered before I even realized how much they’ve been stretching out :((
Hello..
I have 1 levis S501 xx that ive acquired few years ago. Just curious about the production date..thanks
type 1988-1993 with the care label usually found..
Thanks fie
I found a pair of dark not worn levis vintage 501 big E 32 x 32 cooper rivets front pockets and silver backs inside. LEVI’S VINTAGE CLOTHING is stamped on the inside pocket, are they valuable.
Yes quite decent price if LVC type as i known..but it not fall under vintage category levis which usually before 70s..you can go to levis website to look the price tag..quite expensive..but collector more prefer a vintage old pair than new reproduction LVC that copy old levis vintage design..nonetheless u still can make money..u lucky to have one..
Hi…i had a levis which i cannot find the same on any internet site..because label care in two language USA and JAPAN..The model was 501XX made in U.S.A…my pair denote no 552 on top button..small e no selvedge…but i convinced it was vintage n original..Sir please help me clear this up..these some pictures
Somebody please help me out on this unknow..
Anybody ever seeing levis made in U.S.A which has two language label care inside it..Care label in USA n Japan..anyone??what is the value..LEVIS 501XX small e no selvedge but button no 552..
PAT SMITH. YOUR JEANS ARE CAMP FIRE MEN’S RIDING JEANS WITH THE RIVET IN THE CROTCH. THEY ARE WORTH A GOOD AMOUNT OF MONEY AND ARE LIKELY QUIT OLD. Please be aware of there value as they are in brand new condition which triples the value.
Hello, I have never seen levis where the front of the leg is longer than ghe back of the leg. They are single stitch and have silver rivets. Any info is appreciated..thank you.
I can not locate these jeans anywhere online … Help??! There is no tags for care on the inside
What can someone tell me about two pair of estate sale found jeans. One is an orange tag, model 646 and the other appears to be model 515 and has a belt loop style leather tag both size 42×34 and both have a Levi’s stamped zipper. Are they an oddball pair of Paul Bunyon jeans? Can you explain to me how to date these. The buttons are stamped 539 & 653 as on the care tag
need info on this levi’s premium collectibles item, age and what model ? pls refer to the pictures.
https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/0bd5b1875250fb09e0053df82b6b597a477663012a67739dc333996819a7da2d.jpg
Hello,
I found a pair of Levi’s that have a maroon tag, and the E is capital. I’ve researched, but can’t find them anywhere. Can you help?
Thanks
So are these fake? 501 jeans, soft material not denim like, no material/handling tag. Tab says LEWIS
Found these beauties in a 2. hand… Maybe they are from the 1970s? I wonder what ‘prisoner of war-stencilled’, means…
Found these beauties in a 2. hand store. Could they be from the 1970s? Wonder what ‘PRISONER OF WAR STENCILLED’ refers to…
Found these beautiful jeans in a 2. hand store. Could they be from the 1970s? Wonder what ‘PRISONER OF WAR STENCILLED’ refers to…
hi,
me also have this pair of jeans. if they have the care tag(in japanese), maybe it from 2003 collection that levis japan reproduced from the 1944 model.
Hi I have a pair of levis OOP 808 ladies made in china, how do I find out when these were made or production stopped
Hi, I have this pair of jeans and i want to know the manufacture year and details? very good site! thank you!
Hi, I have this pair of jeans and i want to know the manufacture year and details? very good site! thank you!
Hello, May I guess that was produce since Feb,86 since I see code “026” at below left tag.
My mom has these jeans can you tell if they are worth anything.
Can you tell if these are worth anything.
Hello,
I picked up a few pieces of vintage denim. Thanks to your website I was able to identify the jacket as a 1950’s Type II 507XX denim jacket-Chinch- selvage edge. Inside copper rivet raised letters. I also have a pair of 501’s. Selvage edge, Big E single stitch on the inside back pockets. My question is I found a number stamped on the back of the left front pocket. 220-19-3232. What does this number refer to? Also the top button is stamped with an 8. I’ve seen 6 & 9. Is the 8 legit? Here’s a photo of the back patch, selvage and inside back pocket as well. If you could give me an idea of their value as well.
Thanks
CMJ
Hey guys!
I can’t seem to find any pic of this patch.
What do you guys think? Any idea of what they are and value?
Thank you
I have a pair of Levis that say made in mexico but have the this is a pair of Levis stamped on inside of left front pocket…. They are button fly….33×30 are they of any value?
Hey y’all. Do you know of anything distinguishing 1980-1999 jeans from their current counterparts besides the made in USA label?
Hi. I just got these 501’s at my local Thrift store. I was wondering if they are the real thing and what year. They seem to be pretty well made but I leave it up to you to judge.
Thanks
I have 2 pair of relatively old kids Levi’s. They both have an orange tab with the little e. One pair I know was worn in the early 60’s. It has an orange little e tab, and one back pocket. None of the children’s jeans have rivets on their back pockets. Any help you could give would appreciated. From the research I have done, it is very hard to date these jeans as they are kids jeans, and there are not many articles related to vintage kids jeans. Thanks! I tried to posts pictures but there was an error. If there is an email address I can send the pictures to, that would be great!
Also, does anyone know anything about Corn Cobber kids denim jackets? Circa 1970/80
I have this pair of 501XX buy from garage sales. Just wondering the manufacture year and details of this jeans. TQ very interesting site
Hello Denim hunters,
I recently purchased these on a trip in Germany can you tell me if these are authentic and if you could provide me some information as to the manufacture date.
Thank You So Much!!
All the best,
Christian Aleman
I have some 501s that seem heavier built softer but are heavily intentionally distressed and the buttons on the fly include one red button. These actually fit the way my 501s used to fit 20 years ago unlike all of my new 501s which have a FAT waist and skinny thighs(opposite of how I am built).
I have been looking for the production date and provenance of these “Red Button” 501s for 2 years now.
Any ideas?
I’ve had a pair of baby size 0 Levis since 1970 hoping for kids 🙂 they are like new and have the large E on LEVI tag. Was wondering of they were worth anything?
I have a good one for you. Leather back patch AND leather Levi back pocket tag WITHOUT Levi written on them. No buttons,but zipper fly. When were these made? Also says on the inside label,”Levi’s For Men With A Scosh More Room”. Interesting.
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