Make Sure the Denim Jacket Is Not a Replica!
Some jackets may appear to be older than they actually are. This guide is only valid for ‘original’ vintage jackets, and therefore not replicas such as Levi’s Vintage Clothing jackets. Take a look at the care label inside the jacket. If it has one then the earliest production date is the mid-70s when Levi’s started using care labels instead of prints.
Single row stitching: No (mid 60 – 71)
If you found a jacket, like I did, with a single row stitching, no hand warmer pockets an a small e red tab on the chest pocket, then your jacket is very likely from the period mid 60 – 71. For a difference between the two stitches have a look at the pictures.
The Big ‘E’ Third Edition (Type III) (50s – 71)
Finding a jacket with the Big E red tab, then you’re in luck. We’re talking about the period of the late 50s – 71. These jackets also have only two chest pockets and these are known as the Third Edition or Type III series. Some of them are blanket lined. You can read more about the Type III here.
The Second Edition (Type II) (40s – late 50s)
Except for the Big E, you can identify a Second Edition (Type II) by its vertical pleats on the front side adjacent the buttons. The 2 chest pockets are exterior and have straight pocket flap instead of a pointed one on more recent models. Really a favorite model, but hard to find in vintage stores.
The First Edition (Type I) (before 40s)
The First Edition or Type I with the lot number 506XX has a single breast, left side pocket. Like the Type II, this model also has a pleated front. The early version didn’t have a pocket flap, which was added onto later models.
As with the early Levi’s jeans from that era, a cinch back was used on the lower back. The red tab appeared from the 1936 models. Read more about this model here.
Click here for more exclusive stories about vintage Levi’s denim!
*NOTE: If you have more specific information of how to date this jacket, please share it with us in the comments below. We realise that we are actually stating that the small e red tab was introduced to the Type III jacket before 1971. You also may want to have a closer look at our sources: Midwest Vintage and Infobarrel.
74 comments
Hey, Bence!
While I am no expert, I do know a couple of things.
One of those things is that there are MANY stylistic nuances to women’s
fashions, and Levi’s jackets were not spared that fate.
I don’t
see that as a problem, however. The gal who has my rapt attention is
like a clothing chameleon. I love that she’s a walking closet, as she
infrequently sports the same article, and I’ve never seen her repeat an
entire ensemble. She’s an interesting surprise upon each meeting. I also
picked up a very nifty Big ‘E’ jacket for her this past Christmas. It
had been uniquely embroidered and was biding its time in the Brighton
shop location of Beyond Retro. To the point of my reply here, the jacket
is ‘standard’ Levi’s, for want of a better term. I believe that, for a long time, Levi’s jackets were just viewed as utilitarian items, not the wardrobe staples and coveted historical gems they’ve become for style mavens and vintage denim aficionados. Then the awkward term ‘unisex’ was coined.
My ramblings aside, I’ve attached pictures
to aid my text. I included the pink Levi’s jacket for an obvious if
stereotypical reason: it was unmistakably designed, marketed and labeled
as a woman’s garment, though I haven’t appended other photos to support
that statement. Perhaps less obvious, If you can see the detail well
enough in this photo, is that the back yoke is ‘western’ style, in that
it forms a downward point which is not unlike the iconic Levi’s arcuate.
I have seen this on other Levi’s jackets which were conspicuously
advertised as being styled for ladies. That’s no guarantee of
gender-specific structure, for I have a 1994 Carhartt jacket with a
similar feature. Relative to Levi’s, however, I believe that this design
element was reserved for women’s styles. To remind you; I am not a real
expert, but I play one on T.V..
Moving into classic indigo
territory, the other three photos are of the same jacket, and it is
listed on eBay as a women’s model. Notice that the back yoke is
straight, but that the vertical seams are nearer the center of the
jacket and have a V-taper that is more pronounced than customarily seen
on a vintage ‘Trucker’ jacket. I would presume this was done so as to
accentuate the wonderfully feminine curves from waist to hip which help
define the female form. Maybe I’m just a perv. Ha! Regardless, several
variations on a theme emerged when Levi’s design eye turned with a
dedicated focus on ‘ladystyle’.
In the last picture, if you can
enlarge the image, you’ll see that this is not a truly ‘vintage’ Levi’s
jacket, simply based on the small ‘e’ pocket tab. That’s secondary to
the primary matter, though. What I probably should have said at the
outset, in the interest of saving time and getting directly to the
point, is that there’s ONE critical structural feature that should solve
your dilemma, Bence.
I’ve taken enough of your time, if ANYone
is even still reading this, so I won’t keep you guessing — although the
challenge of a puzzle is always fun.
Check the placket of the
jacket. I love that rhyme, unintentional as it was. In the last photo
you’ll clearly see that the buttons are on the left side, as worn, which
is the norm for women’s tops. Check any other ‘standard’ Levi’s jacket
that isn’t specifically labeled as a women’s model and you’ll see that
the placket buttons are on the right — the ‘man’ side.
Remain
vigilant. It may seem simplistic, but be aware of colors, finishes,
silhouettes or any other manufacturing appointments which differ even
subtly from Levi’s legendary, traditional styles and construction. This
practice can also help to keep you safe from the money-hungry beasts
which lurk in the deep, dark woods of counterfeit goods.
Go
forth with manly confidence, Bence, and nevermore fret about
accidentally donning a Levi’s jacket which was designed for the
nicer-smellin’, better-lookin’ ones out there.
These photos didn’t send as the intended attachments. My reply was tedious and tortuous enough, these at least tie things together! Sorry, and thank you. : ]
These photos didn’t send as the intended attachments. My reply was tedious and tortuous enough, these at least tie things together! Sorry, and thank you. : ]
I have a Levi’s denim jacket from the late ’60’s. It has no flaps on the breast pockets. I haven’t seen one like this on-line. Can you tell me anything about this type? Thank you.
Hi, i recently found this one. and want to know more about mine. please tell me anything if you can see something. thanks
http://59burst.blogspot.kr/2013/04/levis-big-e-70505-0217-type-iii-vintage.html
Hi we have a jacket that appears to match the single row stitching with the small e (mid60s-71) but it has a stitch line just after the button hole which runs from the front around onto the inside can anybody identify this.
The label in the back has Levi Strauss & Co with San Franciso Calif under and the print is brown not red and stitched with black.
i have a mustard color levi jacket with a buckle at the front,it has a white levi tab with capital letters and was made in the uk,anybody know what year it was made
Hilda b
Hi guys, great post but I have a few questions about the jacket. I have two jackets without lower hand pockets and both single row stitching but one is made in Tunisia and the buttons are stamped T36, whereas the other does not say where it is made and is stamped T37. Does the T refer to factories in Tunisia? Also what is stamped on the jacket you bought?
Cheers, George
Hi I have a childs levi jacket , all four of my children have wore it ,but it is I very good condtion it has very thing you have on your list, but it has snap on buttons, Can you tell me whats it’s worth?
Hi I bought a pair of Levi with a red stitching on the inside back that says Levi’s in red thread the pockets say red and the label on the back say Levi’s red and the horses and the the jeans on the back label are solid red and the pockets are totally different cant find anywhere
That sounds — not so strangely — like the Levi’s RED line. I ‘read’ earlier in another Denimhunter article that this series was discontinued seven years ago after a short-lived stay in the marketplace. Apparently it’s been recently reintroduced.
I have a Levi number 70507 4890 do u know what it worth
Hi I have a Levi’s Sleeveless Denim jacket.
The label says: 96185-9059, SP 94, K 19
Can you tell me what that means?
Also, i like to know if its a limited edition, collectible.
Can you help?
Hi I have a Levi’s Sleeveless Denim jacket.
The label says: 96185-9059, SP 94, K 19
Can you tell me what that means?
Also, i like to know if its a limited edition, collectible.
Can you help?
Hi I have a Levi jacket that says “Levi Sport Jean”. It’s hooded and has a patch that says “SJ”, how old is this sucker?
I have two Levis Jean Jackets from the late 1970’s (one faded one not faded). I know the date is right because I purchased them both new. As far as I know early Levis jacket Pre 1980 didn’t use “XL” lettered type sizing but I can’t say for certain. Both of mine came in numbered sizing with one being 42 and the other 46. The non faded Jacket has a slightly larger tag sewn just below the collar. Both Jackets were made in the U.S.A and both two pocket Jackets and both have a small red tag sewn on the left pockets.
Hey there!
I’m no expert, but as I like to say, I’ve learned just enough to enable me to thoroughly embarrass myself in the appropriate company. Ha! That said, it seems that you MIGHT only be interested in your jacket’s potential resale value. That’s certainly not a problem, but if that IS the case, I’m not particularly sorry to say that I don’t think the jacket would be ‘worth’ much more than what someone who wants a basic jacket would be willing to pay. ; ]
If there’s something elusive and coveted about a model like yours, collectors would likely know about it — and die-hard denim hunters would abandon any bargain-hunting poker faces if you had something of the rarest order, even if it meant paying dearly for the goodies. Do your homework. In the meantime, put your New Zealand-made orange-tab jacket on the auction block at eBay for a few hundred bucks as a reserve price and see if you generate any interest. I’m serious. Don’t fear being absurd. You TRULY never know until you try! Plus, as I admit to offering an inexpert opinion, the best answer to your question might be much weightier than I surmise it to be.
I don’t have a comprehensive knowledge of models and styles — see my opening statement. ; ] However, I do believe that I can say with certainty that an orange tab indicates a jacket which dates no farther back than the early 1970s, and which may not even go farther back than the late ’70s. If it is that old, while still technically ‘antique’, your jacket won’t be what is currently considered collectible in terms of seldom-seen relics like those you’ve read about in this article. Red-tab Big ‘E’? Then you’re at least in the ballpark of curiosity for someone who’d be looking for what would presently fit the bill as a desirable vintage Levi’s jacket.
I ‘met’ Thomas, Rope Dye founder, over a year ago here, after offering a couple of comments on this same topic. He kindly asked if I’d like to be kept in tow as a contributing writer. I’m oddly busy with so much other stuff that I’m not visiting as much as I’d like to be. I’m here today as a result of answering an e-mail request to renew my Rope Dye subscription! You didn’t ask about that, though. In fact, you didn’t ask for much of anything about which I’ve babbled. ; ]
I’ve corresponded with Lynn Downey, Levi’s dedicated company historian, primarily to answer questions I had about verifying the authenticity and approximate age of my own jacket. There are some intriguing gaps in Levi’s documented past which can be partly attributed to a loss of many production records following a factory remodeling in the 1960s.
Anyway, aside from still being cool because it’s a Levi’s jacket that may be nearly four decades old now, my suspicion is that unless yours is remarkably similar to one that someone had strong sentimental attachment to, its resale value is probably not astronomically high — but an eBay posting may be the determining factor. ; ] It’s rather amazing to see how much some people will pay for certain things. I’ve baffled myself with what I’ve occasionally paid for ‘enthusiast-grade’ items. Sorry for the unexpectedly lengthy reply. Ha! Peace!
Sincerely,
Bill
My jacket is exactly like the one you found, except it says 70500 02. What does that mean?
Hi there I have a 506xx Levi’s jacket. I’ve had this for 15 years. It has all the rivets, printed buttons, stitching etc. but there is a few things I need to be enlightened on to wether it’s original. The cinch buckle on the back is silver but the two spikes are brass. Also the red tab has capital letters LEVIS but on the reverse of the tab it has the same but upside down? Can anyone very this I’d be much appreciated.
Pat (UK).
I HAVE A 60’S DENIM 3/4 LENGHTH LEVI JACKET WITH LEATHER COLLAR I HAVE OWNED IT SINCE THE 60’S SO I KNOW IT IS GENUINE DOES ANYONE KNOW ANYTHING ABOUT IT
Hi, any idea how to spot the difference between original 507XX jacket and 1996 Japanese reissue? Would really appreciate any insight you could offer!
Hi Juniper,
The reissue should have care tag, the original shouldn’t. Of course it could have been removed, so check the back of the bottoms as well.
These
tips are really tremendous. Thank you for sharing with us. I think these tips
are really effective for all in real estate dealing.
Corduroy Jackets
I found a jacket type 2 . Inside,in the tag says M 70502 02 83
25363 12 93. 116. Made in Italy. Buttoned back-116. On the pocket tag with the small letter e.
This jacket is authentic? Sorry for my bad english!
I recently purchased a levi’s 70507 trucker jacket…single row stitching near waist button hole, 2 breast pockets, 2 side pockets, 2 interior pockets. buttons are silver not copper….L.S. Co. S.F. CA….., tag says…70507…size XXL small e red tag on breast pocket. Now, from everything the blog says about dating. I am at a loss with this…guy who sold it said it was 60’s but all info here says only 2 pocket trucker jackets in 60’s…please help date this damn jacket!
Hi Steve,
Thank you for your question. Would you please join our forum, start a thread, and ask it there?
hello … I have what I believe to be a second edition (type II) LEVI’S , large E denim jacket. It has single stitching, a blanket lining, vertical pleats on front, 2 front pockets with flat flaps, and rivets on the forearm seams, above wrists. The label is long gone, but some of the stitching that was around it still exists. The collar is very worn at the neck, and split from wear.
Hi Bernadette,
Thank you for your question. The value of such a jacket become very much down to it’s patina and general condition. Also, you need to be 100% sure that’s it’s an original. The best way to determine it’s value would be to get in touch with Levi’s directly.
Hi my husband has a Levi jacket 70500 02 17 , it has single orange stitching and small e on the tab , he bought it when he was 16 he is now 68 it’s in mint condition ,he wants to know if it’s worth anything could u help
Hi Audrey,
Wow, so that would mean he bought it around 1962? A jacket that old with a small e red tab would make it special no matter the condition. Has it been worn and wash or is it deadstock? If you could, please upload a photo or two of the jacket.
Hi there,
Just found a white tab jacket,acid washed.The tag on the inside says “sample garment” # 75843-1018any idea of its value?
Hi there. I found an old Levi’s jacket in my dad’s closet. It has the small ‘e’, but single stitched. It also has what appears to be the beginning of a 2nd stitch that runs about 1/3 of the way up beside the single stitch and then stops. It is also seen on in the inside. I really want to know what ear this is from. 60s or 70s.I’m reading conflicting thoughts on the matter. It was made in Canada. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks.
This article and pictures are really interesting and knowledgeable about vintage Levis jacket and
there are some affordable designer coats and jackets for women in UK.
Hi there. Just picked up a Levi’s denim jacket (small ‘e’, 2-pockets, single stiching), serial number on label 0505 2017. Any thoughts on when it was made? Thanks!
I found a fur lined zip jacket, 2 bottom flap pockets with side zip pockets. White tag, talon zippers.acrylic hem and cuffs. Does anyone know approx. year it was made? Thank you
Hello, I would greatly appreciate any info you may be able to offer me on my ‘Trucker Slim’ 730S 7051164103 with two inner pockets.
I have 8 vintage Levi’s hand stitched top buttons, can you tell me how old are these and if they were used for pants or button up shirts? Thanks!
Hi. I have what I think is a mid’80’s Levi trucker jacket. Buttons are stamped 977. I’m new to this. Does anyone know what that means?
Hi Jan,
Levi’s have never officially published a list of which factory each stamp refers to. Something triple digit beginning with 5 (e.g. 555, 552, 526) is commonly found on 80s to early 00s “made in USA” garments. Made in Europe garments usually have triple digit code beginning with 2.
What does the care label say? Please upload pictures.
I have a levis type three jacket 7505-0217, made in 71 to mid 80s. The buttons on the back have the letter 52. What does that mean. This jacket was made in the US
Please help. Good condition but not sure if old enough as a vintage sale. 501 jeans and Denim jacket snaps not buttons. E on both red lags. Thank u so much for your help
I have a levi jacket with two breast pockets and two hand warmer pockets…it is the longer style with older label and number 70360. What age is it and what is it worth? thanks sandy
I.have.a.blue.Jean.jacket.but.the.inside.tag.is.off.a.little.but.it.has.real.Levi.button.an.a.red.tag.that.SAID.Levi.is.it.worth.anything.call.me.my.name.Brenda.3133531772
I have a leather Levi jacket that squired from an American serviceman. It is distressed brown leather no lining trucker style the only way I know it’s Levi is because of the buttons being Levi. I would like to know if it has any value.
We would need to see pictures of the front and back of the button and the jacket in general.
I have a Levi jacket purchased in the middle around 1985 and would like to know what is it’s value.
i have just bought the most unusual levi strauss 70500 04 in large. It has on the back panel “The Levis club presents a local act special event LAST GANG IN TOWN, plus special guest Dain Bramage” I add pictures.
I would like to know how old and whether i paid a good price?
Hi Karen,
How would our guide date the jacket? It’s a shame there’s no year on the print on the back of it.
My green Levi jacket has black tabs state of califoria main tab an small e pocket with hand warmers and single roll stitch at bottom button hole ?
I have what looks like a Levi jacket. But it has no e tab. The label says 70505-0217. It has breast pockets with points and single stitching round the waistband. Is it genuine?
Hi Duellmum,
Maybe the red tab has simply been cut off?
70506-0353
usa made strange black
care less about price just want good info
Here’s my blue leather 70505 trucker jacket. It’s heavy, tick and smooth leather. Probably made of horse hide. Small e, single row stitched bottom button. Small leather label. Label is gone, I wore it off riding my motorcycle. But I got a picture of the label before it disappeared. The jacket appears to be a 1967 type iii. I’m contacting Levis to confirm that. I’ve searched, but can’t find photos or information on this year of leather jacket. My conclusion is that there aren’t many of them left today, and I’ve got a rare piece of Levi’s clothing here. If anyone knows about this type of jacket then please post!
My Levi denim jacket number is
70401 0816 how can I find out how much it’s worth
Hi…Could you please help with some info on my Jacket. Has large “501 Blues
on back 2 hand warmer & 2 chest pockets. 70307 0n tag
Thank You!!!!!
Rick
pic from question below…
this website is awesome. I just learned that my Levi’s jacket that I thought was made in the 80’s was made no later than 71. pretty cool. thanks for the detailed guide.
Anyone have information about this Levis blazer? The denim looks indigo and the tab and stitching are orange. It doesn’t have any inside labels. Thanks.
Hi there!!! I am checking to see what year or type jacket that my father in law had. He had just recently passed away and we had found it in his closet. He was 69 years old when he passed and was a Vietnam Veteran. He had this jacket when he had just started dating my mother in law so I believe it is between the 60’s-70’s. Thank you!!!
Here’s a few pictures of the jacket!!
I have small Levi jacket with a big 6 x 41/2 leather tag it has flannel lining large pockets wonder whats worth? 776 9-7 60971 5 75069-0214 numbers onlevi’s tag
made in Mexico thanks!
Hi ,I have a demim jacket labeled 70500 02 17, with a small e label..
Single stiches ,trying to find out when it was made and any value.
Has been worn but in got condition
Can anyone help
Thanks
Freddie
Hi, I’ve got this jacket, it has 521 or 527 on buttons. Very old tag can’t make much out. Can you help? [email protected]
I have a 70505 type lll jacket with care label and tropical embroidery by Bradley. Is it LVC?
Thanks for any help. Juliet
It’s been proving very hard identify this label. I’m thinking it’s a fake? I thought I was buying an 80’s stone wash ladies jacket from a boot sale. Any thoughts please?
Hi
Can any one help me date these Levis ?? small e orange tab,42 talon zipper,28 button bell bottoms
Thanks
Michael https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/63906c6485e95852e38f5e06f8270146363f04643b1b0db7e3381587c5c53cc9.jpg
Could you please expound on this article and provide paragraphs and breakdowns of the value of various eras, vintage Levi jackets? 1940’s, ’50’s etc.
Is there a way to differentiate between 1980s Levi’s jackets and 1990’s Levi’s jackets?
Hi Guys,
I bought my Levis jacket late 70s 70500 04 size s single orange stitching adjacent to buttons no hand pockets top pockets pointed, vertical side seams adjacent to buttons back of buttons stamped 116, waistband 2 adjustable buttoned flaps red label small e printed both sides of red label made in Italy 116 01
I bought my jacket new in the States in 1982 – and it has the hand warmer pockets. Just pointing this out as you may need to revise date in which they were introduced.
Very interesting article.
Which year is the jacket with the designation: 70507-0214 ? Made In USA
I believe the Trucker Jacket is not the same coat as the Levis Jacket, it seems longer. We never called Levis Jackets trucker coats. What a stupid name.
Plus, I once own a Levis jacket made from Tan Corduroy in the 70’s, it couldn’t take the zillions of washings I gave it, and wore out, it was also sold with a matching Corduroy vest & jeans. It was a real Levis 3 piece outfit. I owned them all, and they all wore out.
I don’t buy Levis anymore, the cloth isn’t the same. Very cheap now!
Hi. From the descriptions stated above, I believe my Levis Trucker Jacket is from the year 60s-71. It only has 2 chest pockets, no hand warmers, no care tag, small “e” and single stitching on the bottom. However, I cannot find its style number anywhere in the internet (06-705-0217). Is this jacket legit? Please help authenticate. Thanks! https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/ecfe181a22b1b8652677db4d6c8f8906168de45d38476ed0d19718e4970b391a.jpg
Hi I have a Levi jacket that says “Levi Sport Jean”. It’s hooded and has a patch that says “SJ”, how old is this sucker?
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